Older than Stonehenge
Outside of Évora, Portugal stands a set of monoliths, the Cromlech of the Almendres. These are about 7000 years old, predating Stonehenge by approximately 2000 years. The ones we visited were discovered in the 1980's. They are amazing to see. Even more amazing is how few people there are and you can roam among them.This is a favorite photo as it appears the dark clouds are preparing for an ancient ritual.
The monoliths are surrounded by scores of cork trees. They have all been harvested to about halfway up the trunks. You can just make out the green where the new cork is starting. All the brown below is after the cork is removed.
Évora is a wonderful walled city that appears surprisingly prosperous.
We stayed at a very nice, yet somewhat odd hotel, the Albergaria do Calvario. What made it odd was it is owned and run by an American, former Deloitte employee, from Norfolk, Virginia. And, almost everyone there was American. It seemed like we were cheating.
Aqueducts and Romans
A marvelous 16th century aqueduct runs from outside the walled city to approximately 1/4 mile inside. Homes have been built inside the arches, making use of valuable real estate.As you move closer to the center, right below the cathedral, there is a Roman temple to Diana. This dates to the First Century. While not in perfect condition, the Corinthian columns are quite well maintained.
Must See the Cathedral
As with most European trips, cathedrals are nearly standard on the itinerary. Each have their own quirks and highlights.In Évora, we were able to climb to the top and walk around then roof! The closest to this we've come before was the outside observation walk at St. Paul's in London.
John and I were both struck by the lichen growing on the walls and the roof itself.
The Apostles are most everywhere. At this cathedral, they are in wonderful carvings, flanking each side of the main door.
Some Really Weird Stuff
At several locations, there have been some really weird religious relics and artwork. In Lagos, in an incredibly ornate baroque chapel dedicated to St. Anthony, there were multiple paintings depicting his miracles.Most paintings of miracles show the post elation with some symbol of what the miracle was about. Not so here. When St. Anthony reattached a self-amputated foot, the painting was graphic with a bleeding, severed foot and hatched dripping with blood.
The healing of a blind man, where St. Anthony removed the blindfold and the man's eyes came with it, showed just that. You get the picture.
Then, we had the wood carving of John the Baptist's head in Sevilla.
But, nothing quite matches the Capela dos Ossos, Chapel of the Bones.
"Nós ossos que aqui estamos pelos vossos esperamos."
(We, the bones that are here, await yours.)
Now, THAT is a warning.
One More Harry Potter Reference
Turns out, all college students in Portugal wear black capes. They also haze the first year student in a BIG way.I do not know what had been poured on these kids, but my oh my they smelled to high heaven.














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