Toledo, Spain

If you want to protect your town from invaders, do two things: build a wall around it and lay out the streets so everyone walks in circles and gets lost.  Toledo, the original capital of Spain, did just that.

I love walled cities.  For me, they demonstrate the human need for security.  Toledo's walls are an integral part of daily life and extraordinarily well preserved.

There is a LOT of walking up and walking down.  To expedite this for people who live there, that is an escalator!  Most certainly some Moor somewhere is turning over in his grave.

Of course, when you're in the city, you have to know how to get out.  There are a limited number of puertas for exiting.  Signage points the way.

The town has confounding streets.  They are narrow and twisty.  At best you wander and at worst you wander aimlessly.

From our hotel terrace,you can see just how narrow the street is.

Reason Numero Uno why I am glad we are not driving on this trip.

I owe Rick Steves an apology.  John knows I am not a big fan of his; must be his annoying voice.  However, he recommended the Hotel Santa Isabel in Toledo and it was great.  We requested a room with a view, specifically Room 214, and it was lovely.  And, there is a rooftop terrace with incredible views.

Catedral Primera - one of three 13th century Gothic cathedrals in Spain.  Absolutely stunning inside.  Unlike some cathedrals, there is not a large plaza in front. Therefore, the size is deceiving from the ground.

Alcazar of Toledo - dating back to the 3rd century when it was used as Roman palace.

The one hotel feature Rick Steves failed to mention is the incredible elevator button keypad.  The panel is about two feet tall and reminds me of the 1980's large button touch telephones everyone got their grandparents' as a gift.  The hotel had just 3 floors, but should they add more, the panel is extensible. 

Besides touring the Cathedral, we highly recommend the Museo de Santa Cruz and the El Greco museum.  My personal favorites from the Santa Cruz:

Stunning tapestry (just part of it) of the Ark of the Covenant entering the gates of Jerusalem (1515-1525)

Hand-tooled leather travel case (16th century)

Battle pennant - yes, it is that large

The Disrobing of Christ by El Greco (1580-1585).  This is from his workshop, basically a "working copy."  The final version is in the Cathedral.  Having seen both, it was fascinating to notice the differences.  Definitely, the one in the cathedral is more stunning.

I loved this 16th century painting of royal children. Notice the chair the little boy is in.  It has wheels!

Toledo is a city of three religions living peacefully together - Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. There are churches, synagogs, and mosques.  This was my first visit to a town with a Jewish Quarter.  The first feature I noticed was the tiles on the streets and buildings marking the boundary.

Not only is Toledo the home to El Greco, it is also in the province of La Mancha. Hence, Cervantes!

After two days of Spanish art, my tastes prefer El Greco over Goya, and I'm just not sure I "get" Picasso.

Thing we have NOT learned:

1. Why the partying outside our apartment picks up between 2:45 and 3:00 a.m. and then abruptly ends around 4:00.

Adios!