The Compass Works in the Southern Hemisphere

Sunday in the San Telmo neighborhood is market day. The center is in the Plaza Dorrego, which our hotel faces. John was a little iffy on it - "Why don't you go down first and I'll meet you there in 10-15 minutes because you probably want more time than I do." Famous last words.

The market was fabulous and extended down the side streets as well. It reminded us both of the markets in Mexico. The men selling fresh squeezed orange juice brought back such memories of our trips to Mexico (except for the cell phone). Every time I saw a booth with knives, I pictured my grandfather bargaining in Spanish. John said his mother would have loved it.

There were old items, new items, homemade items, etc. Wandering throughout were people selling sandwiches, cold drinks, churros, plus street musicians on every corner.

Old cameras were at several booths.

The same applies to old telephones.

The seltzer bottles are an iconic item. However, only the blue and green are truly old.

The Argentine cows are out of luck.

After spending several hours, we headed off (on foot) to explore the Plaza de Mayo, about 1.6 km away. Along the way, we were nearly, but not quite, lured into the Museum of the Zombies. They really know how to market.

We'd walked about 30 minutes, when it just didn't feel right. I checked the map while John checked his iPhone compass.

Then, the question of the day ...

"Does the top of the map point South or is the compass wrong in the Southern Hemisphere?"

Well, I had made a mistake when leaving the market. Both the map and the compass work the same here as above the Equator. I must remember to check the direction of the toilet flush.

After some food and then a taxi, we reached the Plaza.

Facing the east side of the Plaza de Mayo is the Casa Rosada (Pink House), "home" to the president. In reality, the president is never there. Why is it pink? The adobe bricks did not stand up well to the humid climate. It was discovered that cow's blood has preservation qualities and so was mixed with the paint.

This is the building where the Perons lived. (You thought today might have been "Evita-free"?) The balcony in the center of the left wing is where Eva Peron spoke to the people gathered on the Plaza.

Argentina has some very dark history. During the Dirty War (1977-1983), over 30,000 people disappeared at the hands of the government. Groups of mothers, wearing white headscarfs and clutching photos of their children, marched in the square chanting "We want our children." Today, the plaza is painted with headscarfs and women (now grandmothers) sometimes still gather. Most of those taken have never been found.

Yesterday, I posted from inside the national cathedral. This is the exterior, so very different than what we are used to seeing for a church.

All the tourist books say to visit the Puerto Madera. So we did. It is like so many waterfront areas that have been cleaned up and revitalized. In some ways, they are cookie cutters of each other -- promenades with American restaurant chains.

As I've said, our hotel is immediately across from Plaza Dorrego. By "immediately," I mean approximately 10 yards. Every Sunday night, there is free tango and locals come to dance under the lights.

Tomorrow we head to Mendoza, at the foot of the Andes. This is Argentina's wine country.

Food photos of the day

We wanted something light for dinner and returned to Sagardi for appetizers (and wine) in the bar.

How the system works: Help yourself to the beautiful arrangement and, when done, are charged by the number of toothpicks on your plate. I really want something like this at home.

Someone was much more a pig than the other, based on number of toothpicks.

What we learned

• More Argentine Spanish pronunciations; think Italian influence
• The incredible wifi at this hotel is unusual. No promises for the next few days.