Really Old Sites

One true test of a relationship is driving in a foreign country. Anyone who has done it knows exactly what I mean. Also, if you miss the exit for Alès at Nîmes and end up headed towards Montpellier, it is a l-o-n-g time before you can get turned around.  This added a layer of excitement to our travels.

North of Arles is the Chauvet Cave. Chauvet was discovered in 1994 and contains the oldest cave drawings known, approximately 36,000 years old.  Previously, Lascaux was thought to be the oldest drawings.  We are going there in week, adding to our knowledge of ancient homo sapiens.

We had tickets for the 11:40 English tour, the only English tour of the day.  The "Mishap at Nîmes" set us back to where we were uncertain if we would make our time.  Great panic (and possibly a bit of irritation) spread throughout the car.  The drive was frenetic and entailed high speed, hair-raising travel around hairpin turns up the mountain, followed by a mad foot sprint across the mountain top. (Thank you, Randeen for keeping me in semi-aerobic shape.)  We arrived with 90 seconds to spare, just before the doors shut.

The drawings at Chauvet are incredible.  In several drawings, the artist used the contours of the rock to create parts of the animal anatomy.  This slows a high level of conceptualization.

The horse tableau is one of the most well-known.

The visitor's center opened a few years ago with a complete reproduction of the cave. Due to the fragility of the drawings, only researchers are allowed into the actual cave.  Watch Cave of Forgotten Dreams  by Werner Herzog to learn more.  You must go on a tour.  There are only a few English tours a day and the tickets sell out fast.  Buy ahead.

We had grand plans to visit Pont d'Arc and Pont du Gard on the return drive. We made Pont d'Arc.

Pont du Gard is a Roman aqueduct. We made an assumption that we could see it at any time. There probably is a way, but all we found was an official park and we arrived about 5 minutes after it closed. John said it was like visiting Wally World. That's fine. We were tired (and still emotionally recovering from the "Mishap at Nîmes") and cooled our heals in the old city of Uzès with a glass of wine.

Wisteria covered house in Uzès.

Typical street scene - Uzès

Back to Arles .....

Beginning with our trip to Portugal, we became interested in early European settlers. In Portugal, we were especially intrigued by the Moors and their influence throughout the southwestern areas of Europe.  Spain has such a unique mix of Moors and Romans.  The town of Tarragona, south of Barcelona has amazing Roman ruins, including a magnificent aqueduct.

Arles is the same.  The Roman theater and arena are beautifully restored.  Both are used today for public events; gladiator bouts excluded. 

Arles Theatre

Arles Arena

On one hand, the seating and scaffolding detracts, but at the same time, it is quite charming to know a structure dating from 1st century BC continues to be used for its original purpose.  Amazingly, during the 16th century, an entire village was inside this space.  One can only image the level of disease in such a crowded space.  The towers above were added at that time for defense.

Arles Arena details

The French government is going to great lengths to preserve and restore the arena.  Research and testing have shown where the stone was originally quarried and, where possible, stone from the same is area is being used.

We were exhausted by the time we returned to our hotel and stumbled to dinner at L'Entrevue for a Moroccan tangine with couscous and lamb.  It was delicious, but we practically fell asleep eating. How tired were we? We did not order wine or dessert.  That's how tired we were.